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round the bend and the the Highlands

 
 

where has time gone?when did i last 'blog?'.I think we left Arbroath and landed at the most beautiful harbour imagined,Stonehaven.Oh!If we could have stayed.Tied to the harbour wall overnight in this pretty harbour that has ressurected itself admiralbly after the decimation of the fishing fleet.Lovely coach houses and Inns line the front and wonderful sweeping bay.perfect for dinghy sailing and surfing.Plus, the beginning of the Highlands.Stonehaven lies on the Highland fault line. A place to write and paint too,if only.Must press on.To Peterhead,lovely sail and wide harbour.Poor Alan didn't get thrown around by all the swell this time,whilst taking down the main!Dropped the lot inside and sauntered into the marina.But noone was around and we couldn't get out!Called the Port Control who gave us secret code over the VHF! Lovely marina and HM, who brought our fuel over in a jerry can(thanks Jim!),though a little souless in Peterhead.though as usual everyone helpful.Here though i was aware of my accent,being English that is and how this town had also been victim to the demise of the fishing industry. Decided we must make Whitehills next and must get tide right as Rattray head is notorious. Departed mid-tide and got fantastcially swept past the 'Head' at 7-8 knots!Then it hit us,the wind was NW (our heading of course!) and we couldn't make our course.I felt i was sailing to Norway at one point.Alan,being an ex-fisherman,was amazing at spotting the 'buffs',creels' and fishing buoys'.So hard to spot in a seaway,particularly F7 now increasing and wind against tide.Even under power we started to slow to 3,then 2 knots.We decided to put in to Fraserburgh,which the piulot noted wasn't too welcoming to yachts.However, i called on the VHF and said we were tired and neede a few hours rest.They were brilliant.-So when we finally got in we tied against the wall for a couple of hours to rest and await the next tide.As we left we saw anothe ryacht.No mainsail and motoring in a westerly direction as we were,no sails and a F6/7!Being obstinate I tried to sail by tacking out and back inshore,but we made little headway.On with the donkey again!We kept going with warm tea and snacks until 0100 when we arrived at Whitehills.A sanctuary,but what an entrance.Surrounded by reefs and rocks and hard to see the sector light.Once again my mate stood by and piloted me in.So tired.Tight entrance or!!!!!Two rusting piles to starboard and the wall to port,then hard again to port to avoid more rocks inside,then again to port to squeeze along side the pontoon.Ah!peace here. Fell in love with Whitehills.Lovely 'bothie' to rest,with books,radio,tea making facilities,laundry and homnely decor. David the HM took good care of me after Alan left.Went to Port Soy on saturday to the traditional Boat Fair.Beuatiful traditional harbour.Got a free ride in from KUNa,she was the boat we saw inshore as we came along the coast from Peterhead.We took 19hours (30Nm) but david said we deserved a medal for rounding Rattray in that weather.That was doddle,the rest was painful! Met Ridley (from Eyemouth museum)at Port Soy,to a warm reception.He was taking kids out in 'coracles' (boats originally made of hide,like round tubs). Met Pat McClean,our Sea Safety guy up here and invited to a Ceiladh.Wonderful folk music on the stage.moved me to tears. really think i've found my spiritual home here.Everyone is fantastically helpful and warm. Ate a lovely scone with strawberries and cream,whilst i watched the people and the boats.One lugger was particularly beautiful ,from Wick. On bus back met an ol' fisherman ,called Joe. He came to the boat the next day and brought me a bag of goodies,food and drink.Bless!Met George,who'd been RB in 3 weeks with the two mates and two kids.Lent him charts when we met in Lowestoft,. which he'd left at brighton for me!Tried to get new crew ,as mine had become sick.George called friends for me and i texted everyone. made 'Cullen skink' for dinner. H Smoked haddock,in m ilk and leeks and potatoes.Yummmy! Met anothe 2 RB boats here. Wild Rover (Leukemia Research) and Skua III (Robin,ex.naval and Peter). We went for a walk into Banff along the coast.Stunning scenery.Rocky shore with rugged cliffs and hills behind.The sealife here is stunning too.Thousands of sea birds,dolphins and Alan saw a blow,probably a Minke Whale.Magcial. Ellen (McCarthur) decided here in Whitehills,as have all of us so far i've met,to take the downhill route along the Caledonian canal.it was an easy descision as I'm tired and it takes so much time to catch up with maintenance and energy.I want o experience everything,the sea,the people,the wildlife. Decided to sail single-handed after the 0520 forecast,and looking out of my hatch and walking th eharbour wall at 0600.Departed at 0830,mid-tide for Lossiemouth.David (HM)brought my fuel and Skuya II were leaving too and keeping radio contact with me.David would call the HM (Ian) at Lossie. Wondeful sail and motor sail.Tholugh wind picked up and I nealry missed the entrance.My God these Scottish harbours!Massive swell.tight entrance and whoosh i was through,tight to prot and got blow onto then off pontoon.helped by (Bill) from local dive boat,who subsequently made me a cuppa.Did it! my first single-handed sail on trip 25nm in 4hours! Vicky ,from bright on is joining me next and crispin ,a frined who sails with Juliet,from brightn (she's riding my bike this summer) Just another chance to say thanks to you all out there.I love you!xxxxxxxxxx

Tuesday, June 24, 2008
 

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